Close Up: Runway NY


Close Up: Runway NY

A magic door on the catwalks of the famous Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week: the new volume of Runway, totally dedicated to the event, offers all the pictures of the shows staged in a charming September New York. A comprehensive repretion of the Spring / Summer 2011 collections by young emerging designers at the most renowned brands. It is the East that is the last creative frontier in the Big Apple if even the historic Carolina Herrera is chasing the Asian flair. Accompanied by a Kat, the distinctive Korean headgear made from horsehair, her models are held in by Obi belts and wrapped in tight-fitting clothing. The collection is livened up by eighteenth-century botanical prints. Fluid lines, precise cuts, modest necklines and restrained lengths offer a woman an undisputed elegance. Celebrating its 25th anniversary in fashion, Donna Karan brings a charming desert atmosphere to the Citeh an almost monochromatic catwalk in shades of sand, but done with great style. Details curled on beautiful safari jackets, soft silk skirts, dresses that wrap the legs like petticoats and overcoats so fine as to seem like evening gowns. For the DKNY line, the designer focuses on a great accessory, through highs and lows that never forgotten emblem of feminine elegance: the scarf. Tight at the neck, tied Grace Kelly style, and even reinvented in a top, a little jacket, a light dress, it is used to relaunch the Urban style, typical of the designer, who makes a woman elegant at any time of day. In his show, Marc Jacobs seems to revisit Bianca Jagger in Studio54 in the 70s. Struck by the hedonistic and playful side of this decade, the designer proposes an exuberant palette of reds, disco colours and laminate surfaces, with compact and ultralight fabrics. The jackets fall rectangularly to past the hips over bashfully flared trousers, loose shirts and ultramidi skirts. The theme of the second line is the same, with Marc's young models dressed in sneakers with a heel and platform, cloche hats and deck-chair striped dresses. A collection to be enjoyed at close range is that of Philip Lim which is evolving and presents a series of refined proposals all focused on overlapping and on a manic search for applications-decoration. The designer displays his sartorial art in light tulle embroidered with five different types of lace, creating different geometric symmetries. Also interesting is the bag with two handles reminiscent of the doctors' ?gladstone bag". Ralph Lauren brings on stage a modern and versatile cow-girl, confident and relaxed, dressed in white, cream and tobacco but also shiny lam??????. The fringes are simple and elegant, the straps are decorated with turquoise medallions. A charming woman in her pants suit with puffed shoulders and ankle-length trousers and extremely feminine in Victorian style blouses and long billowing skirts. Sumptuously closing the catwalks, a master of elegance and luxury: Oscar de la Renta, with a collection full of romance with pink, pistachio, orange and floral prints on evening gowns that we will certainly see grace the next Red Carpet.
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